このコラムは、漁港の町で地魚料理を味わう冊子 「尾鷲よいとこ定食の店」との連動企画です。夢古道おわせ支配人の伊東将志(いとうまさし)と、「尾鷲よいとこ定食の店」掲載店を訪ねて回ります。


<Owase Yoikoto Teishoku no Mise(Authentic restaurants in Owase)>

This is a collaboration article with “Owase Yoitoko Teishoku no Mise” , the leaflet that introduces authentic Owase restaurants.Masashi Ito, the manager of Yumekodo Owase, and me visit restaurants in the leaflet.

At this second time, we visited “Happa ga Chef”. As the restaurant’s name indicates, the chef of this restaurants is leaves growing wild in a hill at the back of the restaurant.



<Happa ga Chef”s Jomon lunch>

It is a meal you rustle wild leaves away.





This is “Happa ga Chef” located in Owase city. As the restaurant’s name indicated, the chef of this restaurants is leaves growing wild in a hill at the back of the restaurant.

A tableware set for the meal includes potteries made by the hand of owner’s wife Mitsuru, stones picked at shore of Kumano-nada and wild plants growing in the hill at the back of the restaurants.

 Foods are fish unloaded at Owase fishing port and Kishu Iwashimizu Buta (Mihama Town’s branded pork). These are seasoned only by a homemade salt made of Owase’s deep sea water.



The restaurant is located at the place 10 minutes-walk from Owase Station. The building looking like a hut is located in the residential section by Owase elementary school.



片手には、裏山から採集した葉っぱ。チャノキ(茶の木)、クマザサ、シナモン、アシタバ、花みょうが、杉… これらを料理に用いるという。



Mr. Hirayama, the owner, welcomed us.

In his hand are leaves picked in the hill. Camellia sinensis, Veitch’s bamboo, cinnamon, Angelica keiskei, Hana Myoga(peppermint stick), Japanese cedar… there are used for a meal.

“Leaves are the chef here, not us.”

Wondering what he meant, I ordered Jomon fish lunch and Iwashimizu pork. Walking around the hill while waiting for the meal and I found many wild plants. Back to the restaurant, I smelled like ginger. “It is Hana Myoga”. Mr. Hirayama said.








This is a main dish of the day.

On the handmade pottery, hot stones and leaves were spread over. Barracuda, royal-red prawn, and neon flying squid were on them. At the other plate, Iwashimizu pork was dished up.

I started with barracuda. With a soft structure of meat, I felt the scent of wild plants. Barracuda is not uncommon in Owase, but I had never eaten barracuda like this.

The texture of the pork was dense and almost crunchy. Mr. Hirayama said “it is in a process of aging block meat and making ham.

葉っぱがシェフ 自家製ハム





Foods are cooked without oil and therefore finished not too fatty. Remaining heat brought out the flavor of the raw ingredients. Plus flavor of wild plants were added on, removing uncomfortable smell of foods and giving a flavor.

 The meal reminded me of French cuisine with herbs, but, at the same time, it had a power that you want to eat with your hand. I was little confused by a deliciousness I had never felt.

 I asked some question to Mr and Mrs. Hirayama.





-How did you start this type of cooking?

“It was 12 years ago when we opened the restaurant. At that time, the lineup was totally different than that of present.This 12-years was like a climbing the mountain in the dark. We had some image for cooking. That’s all. Other than that, we have made this through trial and error”.




「肉や魚の匂いをきつく感じることがあるんですが、葉っぱを組み合わせることで、お互いが引き立て合うんです。お寿司の下に敷く葉蘭(はらん)、柑橘の葉、ビワの葉… どんどん深みにはまっちゃって。」

“I have dealt with pottery for years. Thee time when I made a pottery with a hole on a bottom was the start. The heat was too weak to cook prawns or crabs, though. On the other hand, if you put a heated stone on the pottery, it would sear foods out. Then, we popped up with spreading leaves on the stone.

I like leaves naturally. When you roast tea leaves at home, you can smell good scent from a pot. With a little expectation, I tried that method and found that it cooked foods well. Additionally, it added leave’s flavor on foods.

There are times when you feel the flavor of fish or meat is sometimes too strong. Brought with leaves, foods draw their flavors each other. Lotus orchid under Sushi, citrus leaves, loquat leaves… I feel I am getting addicted”.



「そうです。今日の魚料理にはつばき、アシタバ、花みょうが… 和の野草を中心に組み合わせました。」


-Do you change the combination of leaves by what you cook?

“Yes, on today’s fish dish are Camellia, Ashitaba, Hana-Myoga… I arranged mainly Japanese wild plants. You can get fresh fish easily here in Owase. In addition to Tuna and Yellowtail, you can buy rare fish which are not usually seen out of Owase. I am not professional chef myself with no experience of going cokking school or working at restaurants. However, I found myself I was addicted to the charm of leaves.”



「尾鷲出身のイタリアンシェフが来てくれたことがあります。ちゃんと調理学校に通い、レストランで下積みしてきた方でしたから… 正直とても緊張したんですけれど。「ずっと自分が料理だと信じてきたものを、考え直す機会になりました」と感想をくださいました。本当にありがたかったです。」

-I am interested in the reaction of professional chefs.

“There was a time when Italian chef had visited us, who went to cooking school and had rich experience at restaurants. I was very nervous serving him, he commented as “it was a good opportunity to think about what I had said as cooking again,” though”.






-Do leaves have other function than flavoring?

“I felt my body was getting functioned with every day’s diet. So I studied a little and found that each plant has each function. For instance, hana-myoga for barracuda has been used for Gastrointestinal drug. Some of repeaters are doctors and they said our foods were interesting from the pojnt of professional view”.



-There is a maxim “A balanced diet leads to a healthy body.”

“You eat well and spend a healthy life. I suppose that is the core of eating”.





-It seems a large part of your visitors are from cities spending much time and money.

“Probably. There is not a small number of our guests are from Osaka or Nagoya”.


-向こうにはフレンチ、和食、中華… どんな料理も揃っているはずなのに。


-You can eat Japanese, Chinese, and French…anything what you want upon the city.

“You may not be satisfied. In terms of gourmet, Owase’s fish, leaves in the back hill, and this space… it seems you have something to remember by visiting here”.



“By the way, to be honest, I want people in Owase to visit us more”.


-Local peole.


“Lives in here in Owase, fresh fish are seen everywhere, therefore cooking such as sashimi, broiled with salt, or 煮付け are favored. However, some guests say “I have never eaten such tasty Anchovy””.


-What do you think is the different?


“Anchovy is only a food once they are brought on the cutting board, but they had swum in the sea just before that. I believe they hold some type of power. Leaves may pull foods’ flavor out on the dish”.


“Let’s finish our talk and enjoy our desert, sliced banana on leaves”.




住所 三重県尾鷲市 中村町4−51
電話 0597-23-0016
営業時間 11:30-14:00/18:00~21:00
営業日:土日祝 月-金は前日までに予約ください/席数:16席/駐車場:

<Restaurant info>
Happa ga Chef
Address: 4-51, Nakamuracho, Owase, Mie
TEL: +81- 597-23-0016
Open: 11:30-14:00/18:00~21:00
Close: Saturdays, Sundays, National Holidays. *Reservation required by the previous day of your visit.
Seats: 16(Table)
Parking: 7 spots
5 minutes of drive from Owase-Kita IC, 10minutes of drive from Owase Station.


<In fact, it is stamp rally spot>
On the back of this leaflet, you can put stamps on. Get 3 stamps at restrants in the leaflet, and you will get free spa ticket.


(Text and photo by Hajime Okoshi/.English text by Kei Tachibana)


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